- Frost Free Faucet Assembly
- Frost Free Valve Installation Tool
- Frost Free Valve Installation Instructions
Reply: How to Replace the Anti Siphon Valve on a Frost Free Woodford No. Very smart, Jim. But before replacing the valve stem, let's be sure we understand just where the leak is occurring. Click to enlarge any image You can identify the brand and model of your frost-free anti-siphon faucet by looking at the cap - photo below.
If your house is built on a concrete slab, a frost-proof sill cock won't work in most cases. Instead, connect a standard sill cock that's fitted with a vacuum breaker. If freezing is a concern, install a “stop and waste” valve on the pipe as close to the sill cock as possible (yet inside a heated area). This Old House plumbing and heating contractor Richard Trethewey shows how to replace a standard hose faucet with a freeze-resistant model. See below for a s.
It’s Saturday morning. and if you’re like me, it’s time to give the family cars their weekly washing. Let’s see now. The cars are parked in the driveway in front, and the outdoor faucet’s in back. So once again, it’s time to drag the hose (three 50-ft. sections!) through the shrubbery to get the water to the cars.
But today, instead of washing those cars, why not take the time to move the outside water supply closer to where you need it by installing an additional outdoor faucet?
The materials are cheap and even if your plumbing skills are only average, you can do the job in just a few hours.
List of steps
- Install the outdoor faucet (sill cock). Place the angled siding wedge between the sill cock and siding. The wedge helps ensure the downward pitch for draining.
- Apply a liberal amount of flux to the ends of the pipe and to the insides of the fittings. Clean the pipe ends and the insides of the fittings with emery cloth before applying flux.
- Connect the fittings to all of the sections of the new pipe. Put the pieces into position to make sure that the new sections of pipe are the correct length.
- Align the center of the copper tee with the centering mark on the cold water pipe. Measure back 1/2 in. from both ends of the tee and mark these spots on the cold water pipe.
- Cut out the short section of pipe (about 1-1/2 in.) with a pipe cutter. Keep a bucket and rags close by. Dry pipe ends thoroughly. Clean the cut pipe ends and apply flux.
- Install the tee between the cold water pipes. Assemble the remaining section of pipe. Make sun the faucet is angled downward to the outside before you solder.
- Solder all the joints with lead-free solder. Make sure the sill cock is open so pressure doesn’t build up and so the internal rubber washers don’t burn.
Here’s what you’ll need
The most obvious item is a freeze-proof, anti-siphon outdoor faucet (sill cock), available from better hardware stores, home centers or plumbing supply dealers.
The freeze-proof design means that you don’t need to shut off the outside water supply in the winter. The shut-off mechanism of the faucet is located at the end of the copper water tube (see photo inset), not inside the faucet itself.
The anti-siphon device, which prevents any contaminated water from being siphoned back into the potable (human consumption) water supply, is required by many plumbing codes.
You’ll also need to purchase
- 3/4-in. inside diameter (i.d.) rigid copper water pipe (usually sold in 10-ft. lengths);
- 90- and 45-degree-angle copper elbows (the exact number depends on your installation);
- pipe hanging devices, needed every 5-6 ft. for 3/4-in. pipe (again, the exact number will depend on your installation);
- lead-free solder (required by code for soldered joints for a potable water supply line);
- flux (a paste that’s applied to the copper pipe and fittings to ensure that the solder fuses to the copper);
- a pipe cutter;
- emery cloth (a black sanding cloth);
- and a propane torch.
If your home plumbing system’s pipe is a material other than copper, such as galvanized or plastic, you’ll need to buy an adapter or reducer to connect a freeze-proof sill cock.
Determine the location
Where you would like to put a new sill cock and where you can actually do so don’t always agree. Obstacles, both outside and inside the house, will be factors.
The best way to determine where to install the sill cock is to look for penetration points where objects such as electrical service cables, telephone lines or air conditioning pipes enter the house.
By locating these spots and installing the sill cock near one of them, you’ll usually encounter the least amount of resistance getting through your home’s siding and foundation.
Check out the interior
Once you’ve located where you’d like to install the sill cock on the outside of the house, go inside and locate where that spot will enter If you find, for example, that where you want to install the faucet means cutting into a finished basement ceiling, you’ll want to pick a different spot. Or you may decide it‘s time to call in a plumber.
Also, check out what type of material you’ll need to go through. If, for example, you have to drill through a concrete wall, you’ll probably want to find an easier installation spot.
Whenever possible, try to penetrate the wood rim joist — the board that’s perpendicular to the concrete block and wraps around the entire length of your house, separating the basement block from the wall framing lumber — of the house. it’s the easiest of the materials to drill through and usually doesn’t require buying or renting any special tools or accessories.
Planning the pipe route
The new supply line’s inside diameter should be 3/ 4 in., which means tying into the 3/4-in. main water line. You should never tie into a smaller diameter water line, or there won‘t be enough water pressure. Because of this, you may need to install substantial lengths of pipe to reach the 3/4-in. service line.
If it‘s impossible to access the main water Line, you can install a sill cock with a 1/2-in. i.d., if your local plumbing code permits. Most manufacturers make both sizes.
Work backwards
With this project, you start outside the house and work back to the cold water line. This will ensure that the installation point on your home‘s exterior is not located on a siding joint, or “lap.” Also, the sill cock must be installed at a slight downward angle so that the water drains after it’s shut off.
If your house has wood or Masonite siding. you can drill through the siding and rim joist with a 7/ 8-in. spade bit. If you’re drilling through concrete, you’ll need a hammer drill with a good masonry bit.
Once the exterior surface and rim joist have been penetrated, set the sill cock in the hole and position the angled siding wedge, usually included with the sill cock. between the sill cock and the siding (Photo 1). Secure the sill cock to the house with the recommended fasteners, usually brass or galvanized wood screws.
Open the sill cock fully (turn handle counterclockwise) as if you were going to run water through it. That way, when you solder the joints. the faucet’s internal rubber washers won’t burn and pressure won’t build up from the expanding hot air.
Measure and assemble
No two installations will be identical, since obstacles and installation points will vary. But you can follow these basic steps and adjust them as needed.
Once the sill cock is in place, measure the distance from the end of the sill cock to the cold water line. Add an additional 3/4 in. for the soldered connection into the sill cock.
To determine which pipe is the cold water pipe, turn on a couple of hot water taps inside the house. Then feel both water pipes to see which is cooler.
Cut the necessary lengths of pipe, both vertical and horizontal pieces, with a pipe cutter.
Clean the ends of the pipe and the insides of any elbows or other connecting fittings with emery cloth.
Apply flux to the cleaned pipe ends (Photo 2), the insides of the fittings and the inside connecting area of the sill cock. Assemble the pipe sections and fittings (Photo 3).
The only pipe and fitting that isn’t prepared, at this point is the existing cold water line and new connecting tee. You’ll clean and apply flux to these after you turn off the water and cut into the pipe.
Cutting to the existing line
There are still a couple of things you need to do before you shut off the water.
To make sure the new copper pipe is installed at a 90-degree angle to the existing cold water pipe, measure from the inside edge of the floor joist that’s closest to the sill cock, to the center of the sill cock‘s connecting end. Then, mark this distance from the inside of the same floor joist onto the cold water pipe (Photo 4)
Next, center the copper tee to the centering mark Measure about 1/2 in. in from both ends of the tee. Mark these spots on the cold water pipe (Photo 4). The section of pipe (about 1-1/2 in.) between the two marks will be cut out and replaced by the tee.
Now shut off the water at the water meter.
Before cutting into the main line, open the cold water tap that’s at the lowest point in the plumbing system. for example on the basement sink or laundry tub. This will drain as much water as possible from the cold water line.
Cut out the section of cold water pipe using the pipe cutter (Photo 5). Keep a bucket and some rags handy to catch the water that will drain.
You may find that the hot and cold water pipes are so close together that you can’t turn the pipe cutter 360 degrees. If this happens, cut the cold water pipe with a hacksaw.
Dry the pipe as much as possible before cleaning the ends with emery cloth and applying flux. The drier you can keep the pipe. the better the soldered joint.
Here’s a trick for keeping the pipe ends dry: Stuff a ball of white bread into both ends of the cut pipe. The bread will absorb any remaining water and will be completely flushed out when the water is turned back on. The bread won’t plug or harm the system.
Clean off the ends of the cut cold water line and apply flux. Also, clean and apply flux inside all three ends of the tee.
Install the tee between the cold water pipe sections and connect the short vertical pipe into the tee (Photo 6).
Solder all of the joints with lead-free solder (Photo 7).
After you finish soldering, turn the water back on and check for leaking joints.
It’s Saturday morning. and if you’re like me, it’s time to give the family cars their weekly washing. Let’s see now. The cars are parked in the driveway in front, and the outdoor faucet’s in back. So once again, it’s time to drag the hose (three 50-ft. sections!) through the shrubbery to get the water to the cars.
But today, instead of washing those cars, why not take the time to move the outside water supply closer to where you need it by installing an additional outdoor faucet?
The materials are cheap and even if your plumbing skills are only average, you can do the job in just a few hours.
List of steps
- Install the outdoor faucet (sill cock). Place the angled siding wedge between the sill cock and siding. The wedge helps ensure the downward pitch for draining.
- Apply a liberal amount of flux to the ends of the pipe and to the insides of the fittings. Clean the pipe ends and the insides of the fittings with emery cloth before applying flux.
- Connect the fittings to all of the sections of the new pipe. Put the pieces into position to make sure that the new sections of pipe are the correct length.
- Align the center of the copper tee with the centering mark on the cold water pipe. Measure back 1/2 in. from both ends of the tee and mark these spots on the cold water pipe.
- Cut out the short section of pipe (about 1-1/2 in.) with a pipe cutter. Keep a bucket and rags close by. Dry pipe ends thoroughly. Clean the cut pipe ends and apply flux.
- Install the tee between the cold water pipes. Assemble the remaining section of pipe. Make sun the faucet is angled downward to the outside before you solder.
- Solder all the joints with lead-free solder. Make sure the sill cock is open so pressure doesn’t build up and so the internal rubber washers don’t burn.
Here’s what you’ll need
The most obvious item is a freeze-proof, anti-siphon outdoor faucet (sill cock), available from better hardware stores, home centers or plumbing supply dealers.
The freeze-proof design means that you don’t need to shut off the outside water supply in the winter. The shut-off mechanism of the faucet is located at the end of the copper water tube (see photo inset), not inside the faucet itself.
The anti-siphon device, which prevents any contaminated water from being siphoned back into the potable (human consumption) water supply, is required by many plumbing codes.
You’ll also need to purchase
Frost Free Faucet Assembly
- 3/4-in. inside diameter (i.d.) rigid copper water pipe (usually sold in 10-ft. lengths);
- 90- and 45-degree-angle copper elbows (the exact number depends on your installation);
- pipe hanging devices, needed every 5-6 ft. for 3/4-in. pipe (again, the exact number will depend on your installation);
- lead-free solder (required by code for soldered joints for a potable water supply line);
- flux (a paste that’s applied to the copper pipe and fittings to ensure that the solder fuses to the copper);
- a pipe cutter;
- emery cloth (a black sanding cloth);
- and a propane torch.
If your home plumbing system’s pipe is a material other than copper, such as galvanized or plastic, you’ll need to buy an adapter or reducer to connect a freeze-proof sill cock.
Determine the location
Where you would like to put a new sill cock and where you can actually do so don’t always agree. Obstacles, both outside and inside the house, will be factors.
The best way to determine where to install the sill cock is to look for penetration points where objects such as electrical service cables, telephone lines or air conditioning pipes enter the house.
By locating these spots and installing the sill cock near one of them, you’ll usually encounter the least amount of resistance getting through your home’s siding and foundation.
Check out the interior
![Frost Free Valve Installation Frost Free Valve Installation](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1ec115_05701e69c26b46269564e6db3c35c212~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_600,h_325,al_c,q_90/1ec115_05701e69c26b46269564e6db3c35c212~mv2.jpg)
Once you’ve located where you’d like to install the sill cock on the outside of the house, go inside and locate where that spot will enter If you find, for example, that where you want to install the faucet means cutting into a finished basement ceiling, you’ll want to pick a different spot. Or you may decide it‘s time to call in a plumber.
https://avever235.weebly.com/blog/free-pascal-installer-download. Also, check out what type of material you’ll need to go through. If, for example, you have to drill through a concrete wall, you’ll probably want to find an easier installation spot.
Whenever possible, try to penetrate the wood rim joist — the board that’s perpendicular to the concrete block and wraps around the entire length of your house, separating the basement block from the wall framing lumber — of the house. it’s the easiest of the materials to drill through and usually doesn’t require buying or renting any special tools or accessories.
Planning the pipe route
The new supply line’s inside diameter should be 3/ 4 in., which means tying into the 3/4-in. main water line. You should never tie into a smaller diameter water line, or there won‘t be enough water pressure. Because of this, you may need to install substantial lengths of pipe to reach the 3/4-in. service line.
If it‘s impossible to access the main water Line, you can install a sill cock with a 1/2-in. i.d., if your local plumbing code permits. Most manufacturers make both sizes.
Work backwards
With this project, you start outside the house and work back to the cold water line. This will ensure that the installation point on your home‘s exterior is not located on a siding joint, or “lap.” Also, the sill cock must be installed at a slight downward angle so that the water drains after it’s shut off.
If your house has wood or Masonite siding. you can drill through the siding and rim joist with a 7/ 8-in. spade bit. If you’re drilling through concrete, you’ll need a hammer drill with a good masonry bit.
Once the exterior surface and rim joist have been penetrated, set the sill cock in the hole and position the angled siding wedge, usually included with the sill cock. between the sill cock and the siding (Photo 1). Secure the sill cock to the house with the recommended fasteners, usually brass or galvanized wood screws.
Open the sill cock fully (turn handle counterclockwise) as if you were going to run water through it. That way, when you solder the joints. the faucet’s internal rubber washers won’t burn and pressure won’t build up from the expanding hot air.
Measure and assemble
No two installations will be identical, since obstacles and installation points will vary. But you can follow these basic steps and adjust them as needed.
Once the sill cock is in place, measure the distance from the end of the sill cock to the cold water line. Add an additional 3/4 in. for the soldered connection into the sill cock.
To determine which pipe is the cold water pipe, turn on a couple of hot water taps inside the house. Then feel both water pipes to see which is cooler.
Cut the necessary lengths of pipe, both vertical and horizontal pieces, with a pipe cutter.
Clean the ends of the pipe and the insides of any elbows or other connecting fittings with emery cloth.
Apply flux to the cleaned pipe ends (Photo 2), the insides of the fittings and the inside connecting area of the sill cock. Assemble the pipe sections and fittings (Photo 3).
The only pipe and fitting that isn’t prepared, at this point is the existing cold water line and new connecting tee. You’ll clean and apply flux to these after you turn off the water and cut into the pipe.
Cutting to the existing line
There are still a couple of things you need to do before you shut off the water.
To make sure the new copper pipe is installed at a 90-degree angle to the existing cold water pipe, measure from the inside edge of the floor joist that’s closest to the sill cock, to the center of the sill cock‘s connecting end. Then, mark this distance from the inside of the same floor joist onto the cold water pipe (Photo 4)
Next, center the copper tee to the centering mark Measure about 1/2 in. in from both ends of the tee. Mark these spots on the cold water pipe (Photo 4). The section of pipe (about 1-1/2 in.) between the two marks will be cut out and replaced by the tee.
Now shut off the water at the water meter.
Before cutting into the main line, open the cold water tap that’s at the lowest point in the plumbing system. for example on the basement sink or laundry tub. This will drain as much water as possible from the cold water line.
Cut out the section of cold water pipe using the pipe cutter (Photo 5). Keep a bucket and some rags handy to catch the water that will drain.
You may find that the hot and cold water pipes are so close together that you can’t turn the pipe cutter 360 degrees. If this happens, cut the cold water pipe with a hacksaw.
Dry the pipe as much as possible before cleaning the ends with emery cloth and applying flux. The drier you can keep the pipe. the better the soldered joint.
Here’s a trick for keeping the pipe ends dry: Stuff a ball of white bread into both ends of the cut pipe. The bread will absorb any remaining water and will be completely flushed out when the water is turned back on. The bread won’t plug or harm the system.
Clean off the ends of the cut cold water line and apply flux. Also, clean and apply flux inside all three ends of the tee.
Install the tee between the cold water pipe sections and connect the short vertical pipe into the tee (Photo 6).
Solder all of the joints with lead-free solder (Photo 7).
After you finish soldering, turn the water back on and check for leaking joints.
Avoid major headaches (and repair bills) with one very affordable exterior update.
Photo: istockphoto.com
From time to time, homeowners forget to shut off the water supply to an outdoor faucet when they’re winter-proofing the home. Unfortunately, this simple oversight can have disastrous consequences.
Frigid temperatures can cause whatever water remains in the line to freeze and expand, often rupturing the faucet connections and sending water coursing down the inside of the wall. Repairing the damage to flooded walls, furniture, and other possessions can run in the thousands of dollars.
To protect yourself (and your home) from costly water damage this winter, plumbing professionals recommend switching out regular exterior faucets, also known as sillcocks or hose bibbs, for frost-free models. Daniel O’Brian, technical expert for online plumbing retailer SupplyHouse.com, shares the scoop on the solution that starts at $12.
Photo: istockphoto.com
What’s Wrong with Standard Faucets?
A standard exterior faucet features a washer just under the valve, which serves as the shut-off point for the water. When you turn the faucet off, pressurized water remains in the lower part of the faucet and the connecting pipe, where it can easily freeze, causing the fitting to break.
Frost Free Valve Installation Tool
Why Is a Frost-Free Faucet Better?
A frost-free faucet is a hose bibb with a longer rear connection, “essentially a pipe that’s preconfigured to the valve body,” O’Brian explains. The longer rear connection means the internal shutoff valve is located within the walls of the house, where it’s warmer and unlikely to freeze, whereas the internal shutoff valve in a standard faucet is located outside the walls of the house and susceptible to frost. With a frost-free faucet, when you turn the water off the remaining water in the pipe (up to the shutoff valve) drains out so no water is left in the pipe to freeze.
SupplyHouse carries frost-free faucets with pipe connections as short as four inches, such as Bluefin’s 4-inch Frost-Free Anti-Siphon Sillcock, to as long as 24 inches, like this Woodford 24-inch Anti-Siphon Wall Faucet. The length you’ll need will depend on your home’s water pipe configuration and the type of sillcock you’re replacing.
- If you’re replacing an existing frost-free faucet, you’ll want to order the same size.
- If you’re replacing a standard outdoor faucet with a frost-free faucet, order one with the same pipe diameter (½ inch or ¾ inch). The required length of the sillcock extension, however, will depend on the configuration of the pipes inside your basement. For example, if the water supply pipe connected to your old faucet extends 10 inches horizontally inside the wall and then turns downward, you’ll want to order a sillcock with a rear extension less than 10 inches long so it will attach to the water pipe before it reaches the bend.
“There’s peace of mind that comes with reducing the likelihood of a pipe burst at outdoor faucets,” O’Brian says. With a frost-free faucet, he adds, “There’s no need to check outdoor faucets during freezing times of year in cold climates”—something you would have to do with ordinary outdoor faucets to make sure you don’t miss a burst. An undetected burst—an all-too-common scenario when water in a standard faucet freezes and cracks the connections—can result in a small leak or a gush of water. Either one can inflict costly damage before the leak is discovered. Installing a frost-free faucet is a simple way to reduce the risk.
Bonus: An Anti-Siphon Assurance
Most of today’s frost-free faucets also come with an anti-siphon feature to prevent outdoor water from being pulled back into the system in the event of a pressure drop, which can be caused by something as commonplace as an appliance that’s using an excessive amount of water. This feature allows a frost-free faucet, such as Bluefin’s 8-inch Frost-Free Anti-Siphon Sillcock, to operate like a one-way valve that keeps water from flowing backward.
While the anti-siphon feature is not directly related to preventing the sillcock from freezing and breaking, it is a beneficial year-round preventive measure against contamination of a home’s water supply. For instance, if you’ve attached a sprayer containing fertilizers or chemicals to the garden hose, a sudden drop in your home’s water pressure could potentially cause water from the hose to be drawn back into your house. An anti-siphon device prevents this from happening, which is why these devices are now a code requirement on exterior faucets in most communities.
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+Who Needs One?
All homeowners should check if frost-free faucets are required by code in their community. But whatever code stipulates, those living in regions where winter temperatures drop below freezing, even rarely, should definitely invest in frost-free faucets. Not only will you avoid some potentially hefty repair bills, but, depending on your home insurance policy, you may also get a break on your premiums when you replace standard outdoor faucets with frost-free models.
Photo: supplyhouse.com
Installation Advice
Installing a frost-free faucet can be a DIY job, but homeowners who are inexperienced in basic plumbing practices are better off leaving the job to a professional plumber, O’Brian advises. “Pipes generally need to be cut, and the necessary area of the pipe must be depressurized by turning off the water supply and closing any applicable valves,” he explains. In more complex scenarios—for instance, if you’re working with copper water supply pipes—you’ll need to not only cut the pipe but also “sweat” the connection. This technique involves applying flux (a product that promotes bonding of the connection) and then soldering the connection with a torch—and unless you’ve mastered the technique, the connection can leak.
The difficulty of installation boils down to the connection. Frost-free faucets come with a variety of connection possibilities, including push-fit, threaded, and sweat connections, to accommodate whatever types of pipes are found in the house. For example, the Bluefin 12-inch Sweat Frost-Free Anti-Siphon Sillcock features a threaded male end that will connect with a threaded female end, but it can also be attached via a sweat connection. The inside of the threaded end is smooth, which allows insertion of a copper pipe that can then be sweated with a torch.
Keep the following tips in mind when installing a frost-free faucet:
- It’s usually better to use a non-sweat connection, which won’t require any pipe cutting when you repair or replace the sillcock in the future. A sweat connection, however, when done properly, forms a permanent seal that is less likely to leak than push-type or threaded connections.
- Secure the frost-free faucet to the exterior of your house using a mounting plate, such as this Hose Bibb Mounting Plate. The SupplyHouse team recommends a mounting plate because it accomplishes a few important things:
- It secures the sillcock and keeps the pipe from wobbling, which can happen if the screws that hold the sillcock work loose.
- It creates an attractive connection on the wall, leaving no visible hole.
- It helps seal the penetration in the wall to prevent drafts, moisture, and unwanted insects from entering the home.
- Remove the interior stem unit from the sillcock if you’re going to sweat the connection. Soldering a joint requires extremely hot temperatures, and because the shutoff in a frost-free faucet is located near the connection, the heat created during the sweating process could inadvertently damage the rubber O-rings. There’s a screw you can loosen on the outside of the sillcock that allows you to pull the stem out. After sweating the connection, replace the stem and reinstall the screw.
Frost Free Valve Installation Instructions
Frost-Free Faucet Care
Installing a new frost-free faucet will protect your property and allow you to breathe a sigh of relief this winter. Once installed, the faucet doesn’t require a lot of care, but you can keep it working great by following these tips.
- Tighten the valve just until the water flow shuts off. An over-tightened valve puts excessive pressure on the gaskets inside the sillcock, which can lead to premature deterioration and leaking.
- Disconnect your garden hose. The point of installing a frost-free faucet is to keep water out of the exterior portion of the faucet. A connected hose that’s full of water keeps the pipe and the faucet itself full of water, which increases the risk of freezing and bursting.
This article has been brought to you by SupplyHouse.com. Its facts and opinions are those of BobVila.com.
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